Tower Ridge

Art O'Neill Challenge 2012

Date: 13/01/2012
Area: Dublin / Wicklow, Ireland
Maps Used: OSI Sheets 50, 56
Weather: Cold, clear skies, no winds.

Last year I found the Art O'Neill Challenge quite tiring, but then I hadn't done any specific training. This year I wanted to have a better performance, so I signed up for the hybrid start so I had something to aim for. The hybrid race involves running the first section (about 23km) where you are mostly on roads within Dublin, and then trek the remaining 30km.

I can't say I have done a proper training programme this time again, but at least the daily cycle to work and the odd 10km runs kept me fit over the last few months, even after spending the Holidays in Brazil. This year the weather was not nearly as bad as last year. It wasn't too cold, and visibility was actually pretty good throughout the night, with some great views of Dublin city. I felt good during the first section and completed the first 23km in around 2,5 hours, which is in line with my usual pace - and especially reasonable considering the last uphill section. After that it was an easy enough trek, much different than last year when I was already very tired at this point. I felt good the entire route and could have kept going for another while (made me remember my failed attempt at the Lug Walk...).

At the end, arrived #33 among hybrid runners, #119 overall. If I actually spend time doing some specific training for next year, I could even aim at top 10 for hybrid runners...

Duration: 11:13:38 (3,5 hours less than last year)
Distance: 53km
Total Ascent: 1,642m
Total Descent: 1,140m

Moon Walk Challenge

Date: 12/11/2011
Area: Wicklow, Ireland
Maps Used: OSI Sheet 56
Weather: Cold, clear skies (full moon), no winds.

The Moon Walk (or Moon Light) Challenge is a 26km full moon hike along the Wicklow Way (at least partially) in aid of Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue team. The monies raised went towards the building of the team's new base near Laragh (see more details at http://www.wmr.ie/moonlightchallenge).

We started at 18:00 from Crone Wood car park at O192142 and followed the Wicklow way southward until the new Glen of Imaal base in Laragh. A great walk with a full moon to look after us all.

Duration: 5:40 hours
Distance: 26km
Total Ascent: 410m

Aiguille d'Entreves

Mont Blanc Attempt

Mont Blanc Acclimatization

I got to Chamonix on September 3rd after a smooth flight to Geneva with a stopover in Paris. Chamonix is a great little town, it smells like cheese and ham, good coffee, and of course, outdoor sports. I sat for a 'white-coffee' in one of the cafes and all I could see was people with their walking sticks and boots up and down the town centre. Our Mont Blanc climb was planned for Thursday, September 8th, and the next couple of days would be used for acclimatizing to the altitude, something a lot of people neglect in the Alps, but which is always of course very important.

The following morning we woke up early and took the scenic Montenvers train to the Mer de Glace glacier (picture left). The glacier is beautiful, a pity it's retreating so quickly. From the hotel we followed the trail towards the Plan de l'Aiguille as we would spend the night at the Refuge du Plan de l'Aiguille (2,207m).

Duration: 2 hours
Distance: 4.5km
Total Ascent: 300m

This refuge is fantastic, probably one of the best around the Chamonix valley - not a lot of climbers using it, and great food prepared by Claude. After drinking a lot of fluid, it was time to go to bed (at 9:30pm!!). I have to say I didn't have the best night of sleep. Guess it was the altitude, because the bed was OK and I had a private room, so no noises or anything. It's a weird feeling: you wake up many times during the night somewhat breathless. Nothing too bad anyway.

The following morning we made the short climb to the Plan de l'Aiguille lift station (2,233m) and from here it was back down to the valley. We had a couple of hours to spare before heading to Le Tour, so I headed into town for a long walk - it's amazing how good it feels to be back in the valley.

At about 14:00 we headed to Le Tour (north of Chamonix) as from there we would hike to our second hut of the week: the Refuge Albert 1er (2,702m). We took the Le Tour lift towards Combe de Vormaine. From here we hiked for about 2 hours along the Glacier du Tour, a beautiful glacier with a particular blue tone. The weather was improving then and the sun came out to greet us for the first time during our stay.

Duration: 2 hours
Distance: 3km
Total Ascent: 1,050m

The Albert 1er hut is a bloody mess. It is quite popular because of the peaks within reach but it is quite old and crowded. During dinner, for example, there were probably 4 more people per table than what one would like. I know you can't complain about those things - that's just what climbs in the Alps are about, but if you can avoid the Albert 1er, do it.

Woke up early after a bad night of sleep (this time because of the sheer noise in the 12-packed room) but with great views to the Aiguille du Chardonnet (picture right). We headed into the Glacier du Tour, our day today would involve a more interesting climb: the Petite Fourche (3,520m). It's an easy enough climb with a bit of scrambling at the end. More of an exercise for acclimatization than anything else. After that we descended into the Plateau du Trient after abseiling the bergschrund at Col Blanc. We headed to the Cabane du Trient (in Switzerland) at 3,170m for our third night high up. Some huge crevasses in the Plateau - no wonder, I was hiking on short sleeves such was the perceived temperature.

Duration: 5 hours
Distance: 6.8km
Total Ascent: 920m

The Trient hut is beautiful, great location and infrastructure. But boy is it expensive. I payed 8 euros for a 1.5l bottle of water - no kidding. Great food and accommodation though. Had a good night of sleep, but for the first time an annoying headache was insisting on hanging around.

The following morning we would head off very early for one last climb before summit day and then back down all the way to the valley. We left the hut just before 6 in the morning and had some great views of the sunrise over the Plateau du Trient. The climb of the day would be the Aiguille du Tour (3,544m). For the first time in the week the forecast had changed and it indicated we would get the tip of a storm towards the end of the day (following day was not looking as good as before either). At the time I didn't bother too much. We spent a good 2 hours navigating crevasses until we got to the foot of the Aiguille. From here it was a bit of ice climbing and then some easy scramble to the top of the peak (picture left). We headed down to the Col du Tour and then crossed west towards the Glacier du Tour, back to the Albert 1er hut and straight back to the Le Tour lift.

Duration: 6:20 hours
Distance: 10km
Total Ascent: 450m

It was great to be back in the Valley for some proper rest after 4 days and 3 nights up high. Acclimatization seemed like it was a success - now it was all up to the weather on summit day.

Mont Blanc Gear

This is the list of gear I'm taking to my Mont Blanc trip this year:

- 2x merino base-layer tops (North Face and Icebreaker)
- 2x merino base-layer long-johns (North Face and Icebreaker)
- 3x dri-fit underwear (Nike)
- 2x breathable t-shirts (Adidas)
- 2x thicker tops (Patagonia Capilene 3 zip-neck)
- 2x climbing pants (Berghaus (lighter) and Mountain Equipment salopette)
- 2x base-layer socks
- 2x thick socks
- 1x water-proof socks
- 3x mid-layer / fleece tops (Millet and 2x Patagonia windshield pull-over)
- 1x outer shell / insulation (Patagonia simple guide hoody / Montane flux)
- 1x water-proof jacket (Montane minimus)
- gaiters, gloves (base layer), mittens, hats
- boots (La Sportiva nepal evo gtx)
- crampons, ice axes (2x)
- rack with basic gear / protection (light)
- 60m rope

I have a couple of different ways of building my 'action suit' (as Mark Twight calls it on 'Extreme Alpinism'), depending on whether I'm going for a very active day or not, and depending on how cold it's going to get. Usually I prefer a very light breathable t-shirt (I love my Adidas techfit powerweb) and a Patagonia Capilene 3 over that. If it's colder I will use a long-sleeve base layer instead of the t-shirt. Over that I will use a Patagonia windshield pullover (I like the long zip-neck as it allows for regulating the temperature). That combination is usually enough for me - I'll even take the mid-layer off if I'm too active (I'd rather be somewhat cool than to overheat). I'll wear an insulation shell only if it's too windy, or too cold, or if it's a belay (I like my Patagonia simple guide hoody but I also have a Montane flux which I use when the terrain is not that rough - the Patagonia simple guide is more resistant).

Galtymore

Date: 27/08/2011
Area: Galty Mountains, Limerick / Tipperary, Ireland
Maps Used: OS Sheet 74
Weather: Dry (odd drizzle), warm, clear visibility, strong winds at the top

In preparation for the trip to Mont Blanc in September, I met Sinead, Walter and some other friends and we decided to go for a climb around the Galtees. When driving out of Caher, we took the R639 road towards southwest until about R873164 where we took a right turn. This is a local access road and we kept driving up, eventually taking a left at the Y-junction and parking at R866191. From the car we kept walking along the road northwest until you get to a sharp right bend - at this point there's a trail starting to the west and then shortly north into the valley. The trail can be followed until it starts to zig-zag upwards towards the col between Bengower and the unnamed summit at 629m. From the col we descended east into the Glounreagh valley until about R867222. Here there's a trail going southeast but we climbed directly northeast towards Knockduff - a steep climb but an excellent training for our trip in September. From Knockduff we climbed northwest until we reached the famine wall and then veered right (northeast) one last time to reach the summit of Galtymore at 919m (the tallest inland mountain in Ireland). It was very windy up at the top, so we didn't hang around much. We descended back from where we came, using the famine wall as a handrail, passing by Lough Curra on our right and following a counter-clockwise route towards Bengower ridge. We found the zig-zag trail that leads back into the Blackrock river valley and climbed back down to the car. Overall a very good climb at a steady pace - some great training for the Alps.

Duration: 5:20 hours
Distance: 15km
Total Ascent: 910m

Training for Mont Blanc

The Lug Walk

Dinner-time Buttress

Date: 21/02/2011
Area: Glen Coe, Scotland
Maps Used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Misty, dry, strong winds, 1ft+ of snow

The dinner-time buttress is an easy grade II route on the west face of Aonach Dubh in Glen Coe. Actually this is most likely the easier route on the west face, which has some other quite interesting routes up to Stob Coire nan Lochan if somebody is looking for a long and challenging day (look for number three, four, five and six gullies). We started from just after the bridge at NN138567, walking towards the house (to the right of it) and then following south-southeast along the stream for about 300m. Eventually the way up the buttress becomes obvious, with the watercourse that forms number 2 gully growing deeper on your right. There's a section involving some scrambling over rocky terrain, and then we opted for a short chimney which required a proper pitch. After that is all easy scrambling towards the north shoulder of Stob Coire nan Lochan. We descended northeast via Coire nan Lochan and eventually took a lift back to the car.

Duration: 4 hours
Distance: 4.5km
Total Ascent: 900m

Ledge Route

Date: 20/02/2011
Area: Ben Nevis, Scotland
Maps Used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Cloudy, 1ft+ of snow

The Ledge Route is probably the best grade II climb on the north face of Ben Nevis. It is accessible and yet interesting. Luckily this time we managed to park at the upper car park, saving us the steep half-hour climb from the north face car park. From the upper car park, followed the track up to the CIC hut. From there, climbed up to the bottom of Number Five Gully. Eventually veered right via a ramp that leads out of the mountain onto an almost horizontal ledge. This is usually where the first belay is protected. From here climbed leftwards up a gully until a snow platform is reached, where the second belay is usually secured. The climb from here onwards is easier, over the buttress and onto the ridge that leads to Carn Dearg (1,221m). From here we thought of continuing to the top of the Ben, but it was bizarrely windy up there - and visibility quickly became poor. So we took our compass bearing towards the Red Burn and descended the easy route back towards the car park.

Duration: 6 hours
Distance: 11km
Total Ascent: 971m

The Zig-Zags

Date: 19/02/2011
Area: Glen Coe, Scotland
Maps Used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Misty, light drizzle at times, 1ft+ of snow

The idea this time was to climb in the Glen Coe area, so we headed to a route up Gearr Aonach via an easy route called the "Zig-Zags". Started from the car park at NN168569, then climbed southeast towards the waterfall. From around NN173562, turned southwest until finding the beginning of the track. From the end of the track, it's a 3-pitch grade I climb with great views of Glen Coe. After reaching the summit of Gearr Aonach (692m), continued southwest towards the three-lake plateau. Descended via the Coire nan Lochan.

Duration: 5 hours
Distance: 6km
Total Ascent: 790m

Aonach Mor

Date: 18/02/2011
Area: Aonach Mor, Scotland
Maps Used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Misty / whiteout at the top, 1ft+ of snow

Just like the previous year, we started our winter climbs in Scotland with some steep climbing training in Aonach Mor (the east face is usually good for that, plenty of snow). Started from the Ski lift and then walked east and around the spur that leads south to Aonach Mor, slowly climbing it via the east face where it's steep. After reaching the top at 1,221m descended towards the north back to the Ski station for a cup of coffee and some cake.

Duration: 3 hours
Distance: 6km
Total Ascent: 570m

Art O'Neill Challenge 2011

Date: 08/01/2011
Area: Dublin / Wicklow, Ireland
Maps Used: OSI Sheets 50, 56
Weather: Extremely cold, misty, low clouds.

I wanted to go for an adventure race in the Wicklow mountains and when I knew the Art O'Neill challenge would take place once again in 2011, I signed up for it. The Art O'Neill is a race that in theory re-creates the steps of Hugh O'Donnel and his fellow Art O'Neill as they escaped Dublin Castle towards the Wicklow Mountains back in 1592 (see Wikipedia article here). It is a 53 kilometers route leaving Dublin city southwest towards Wicklow, passing by traditional spots like Black Hill, Mullaghcleevaun, Table Mountain, and eventually finishing off in Glenmalure. I wasn't really doing any specific training as I thought this would be just a long and strenuous walk in Wicklow, a terrain that shouldn't offer anything new for me. Boy, was I wrong. The Art O'Neill is a serious challenge, and my poor finish time as well as my sore knees at the end made it clear. Impossible not to think about repeating the dose next year though, this time with proper training and a reasonable finish time. More info on the challenge here: http://www.artoneillchallenge.ie.

Duration: 14:45:50
Distance: 53km
Total Ascent: 1,642m

Cullentragh and Mullacor

Date: 28/11/2010

Area: Wicklow Mountains, Wicklow, Ireland

Maps used: OSI Sheet 56
Weather: Clear skies for most of the route, no wind, very cold. Fresh snow, about 1/2 foot in places.

Route Description: This was a beautiful day in the 2010 / 2011 winter, which was one of the coldest in Ireland on record, with loads of snow falling across the country - especially in the mountains. A lot of fun, in other words. My initial idea was to climb Lugnaquilla, but when I got to the Military road junction on R755, the car just couldn't make it through the icy uphill bit. I had to park there and then and try something different, so Cullentragh and Mullacor seemed like a good option. Started from T140954, walking south along the road until it reaches a bridge and a sharp left turn. From there there's a track heading southwest which can be followed for a while, until eventually one heads a bit more westwards towards the top of Cullentragh. After reaching the summit (510m), headed directly west towards Mullacor (657m). Descended via the same route.

Duration: 5 hours
Distance: 11km
Total Ascent: 567m

Coomloughra Horseshoe

Date: 01/08/2010
Area: MacGillycuddy's Reeks, Kerry, IrelandMaps used: OSI Sheet 78
Weather: Warm, cloudy, light drizzle at times. No winds. Complete whiteout (less than 50m visibility) above 600m. Clearer towards the end of the route.

Route Description: This is one of my favorite routes in Ireland. It passes over the 3 highest peaks in the island, and the Beenkeragh ridge is probably one of the most exposed in Ireland. I've followed the route description in the "Carrauntoohil & MacGillycuddy's Reeks" guide from Jim Ryan. I parked at V772871, right at the bend from where the Hydro Road track starts. From there it's a steep climb to Lough Eighter. People follow different routes at this point, I have simply climbed northeast along the spur that leads to Skregmore. From there it's a straightforward route to the top of Beenkeragh (1,010m). This is where the fun starts then. The knife-edge ridge between Beenkeragh and Carrauntoohil is about 1km long, with some great views into the gullies on the north side and the lakes to the southwest. Pray for a clear day - otherwise think twice whether you should proceed. From the top of Carrauntoohil (1,040m) I descended to the southwest and then climbed up the ridge towards Caher (1,001m). Then it's all downhill northwest aiming at arriving back at Lough Eighter, and back down via the same route.

Duration: 5.5 hours
Distance: 12km
Total Ascent: 1,200m

Errisbeg

Date: 06/06/2010

Area: Errisbeg, Connemara, Ireland

Maps used: OSI Sheet 44

Weather: Warm and bright all the time, windy near the top

Route Description: This is an easy walk if you are in Roundstone. Started from the town centre at L723402 and followed the road west until it becomes a track and eventually fades into the hills. Kept going all the way until reaching the top of Errisbeg (300m). Descended via the same route.

Duration: 2.5 hours
Distance: 5km
Total Elevation: 300m

Stob Ban

Date: 21/02/2010
Area: Stob Ban, Scotland
Maps used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Very cold, sunny all the time, 0.5ft+ of snow

Route Description: Started from the car park up on Glen Nevis (NN146684). From the car park, followed a route directly south, climbing the spur that leads to Stob Ban (note this is not the track present in the OS map, which leads slightly southeast). We've climbed directly from the north spur that extends for over a kilometer all the way down, but there are numerous and more interesting routes if you are coming from the northeast face. After reaching the summit at 999m (after some simple scrambling), we descended to a col at NN146658 and then proceeded west along the ridge that winds southwest to a 917m summit (NN131655) and then northwest to Mullach nan Coirean (939m). Continued descending along the spur to the north and then turned northeast towards the forest, eventually joining the forest track that leads back to the road and to the car park. This is a great horseshoe climb, with stunning views of Ben Nevis on a bright day.

Duration: 7 hours
Distance: 10.5km
Total Ascent: 1,075m

Ben Nevis

Date: 20/02/2010
Area: Ben Nevis, Scotland
Maps used: OS Sheet 41
Weather: Very cold, sunny and bright all the time, 1.5ft+ of snow

Route Description: Started early on from the north face car park at NN145765. The forest track from the car park is steep and tough, but after about half an hour you are out of the woods and at the upper car park where crossing the fence gets you to the start of the CIC hut track (NN149750). Walked all the way up to the CIC hut. From here there are numerous routes up Ben Nevis - the north face is like a climbing playground.  It was my first time here and I wanted to get to the top, so went with the easy route up Core Leis. So from the CIC hut continued southeast towards the col more or less at NN175714. The last section up the coire probably involves some grade I climbing - we went for a tiny gully which was covered in rock-hard ice, so in fairness probably some grade II. From the col, turned right towards the summit of Ben Nevis. This was easy going up as the weather was bright and one could see everything, but this can be dangerous terrain in whiteout conditions - watch out for the cliffs to the north. Got to the summit and then descended towards the famous Red Burn track, the easiest way out of Ben Nevis (in good visibility - look for the classic bearings in case of poor visibility). Descended clockwise along the mountain until joining the CIC hut track once more, then back to the car park.

Duration: 8 hours
Distance: 15km
Total Ascent: 1,294m